St Andrew

30th. of November: St Andrew’s day

St. Andrew’s Societies, Scottish heritage groups, celebrate this day all over the world. Evenings, pipers will march escorting a cook carrying a haggis on a silver platter, in their midst to present Scotland’s most famous dish to a President or Chief of the Banquet. The haggis will be split open with a dirk (a small dagger worn at the kilts waist – not the Sgian Dubh -’skee.an.do’ - worn in the top of the stocking -hose- though it may be used of course) then approved by the Chief and those at the main table. A whiskey toast to the haggis by all, including the pipers in the cooks escort. Glasses thrown over shoulders, smash on the floor and the presentation over, pipers about face and march out, once again with the bagpipes playing.

It is a grand ceremony and I regret that I must be away from these Banquets: St. Andrew’s and Burn’s Night.

One occasion was specially memorable. The haggis, a ’super sausage’ actually, a glistening smooth bag in the centre of a salver, was presented to the St. Andrew’s Society Chairman. As is customary the Chairman offered the guest of honour the privilege of opening it. This happened to be a pompous gentleman from … well, a Very Important Person whose main qualification was being Very Important, much more than being Person. Properly disdainful of these savages in skirts, but ah well … the duties of high office you know. He took the dirk from the Chairman, as the cook (a wee little man, somewhat intimidated) placed the tray just right, in front of him.

VIP raised the blade high over his shoulder and tried to kill the poor haggis with a mighty stab. He missed. The point glanced off and struck the dish. Everyone froze – except the haggis. It leaped off its platter skittered across the ballroom floor at great speed, bounced off the skirting board and disappeared under the diners tables and chairs, on the other side of the room. Someone tried to stop it with a foot and it shot out towards the main table right at VIP. Maybe he was flustered, perhaps he thought it was really dangerous but he still had the dirk in his hand and he stooped for another stab. Touché, another glancing blow sent haggis into the Drums and Pipes Band by the grandstand. Swirling kilts as they stooped and grasped but it slipped away again and settled slowly in the centre of the dance floor. It would have ended there but a young lad amongst the guests well into the spirit of the thing made a flying tackle – which sent it skipping off again of course.

It went on, but finally the haggis, tired and wan, was captured as it got trapped in a corner. It had lost the gleam of its glistening coat and was cold but still intact when it was carved open. It was still very good though.

It’s too late today to prepare a Haggis for dinner, but there’s Burn’s Supper coming up (near Robert Burn’s Birthday, January 25th.  Here’s a recipe (tried, with some success)

—*—

Haggis:

Sheep’s pluck : Paunch (or bag, large stomach) heart, liver lights (lung). Lean mutton, some bone marrow. Beef suet. Onions, oatmeal, salt, pepper, cayenne, lemon or vinegar.

Clean pluck thoroughly, drain the blood and parboil the whole. The water may be changed after a few minutes, continue boiling in fresh water. Half an hour should be enough, though the liver can be done a little longer so that it will grate easily. Keep the boiling broth.

Take the heart, half of the liver and part of the lights (trim out any hard or dark parts). Mince them all together, with a pound of good beef suet and four or more onions. Grate the other half of the liver. Have ready a dozen or so small onions, peeled and scalded, to mix with the mince.

The oatmeal (slow cooking, not ‘quick’ and ’stone ground’ is traditional) should be fine. It can be given a light toasting in an oven or in front of a hearth. Two cups should be enough. Spread the mince on a board and strew the meal over it, with the seasoning of pepper, salt and a little cayenne.

The clean haggis back, with the rough surface outward, should be without any thin parts to it 8or it will burst – some cooks use two just in case). Prepare the mince mixture and onions to the right consistency (it should stick together when you take a handful) and fill the paunch until a little over half full. Add a little lemon or vinegar, press out the air and sew up the bag. Prick in places and place in large boiling pot (prick again as it swells . Let it boil about three hours in the covered pot, adding broth or water as necessary.

sgian-dubh

Q